Pastries, Canals & Reflections-One day in Copenhagen

I took a night bus to Copenhagen. Tonight, my journey continues to Oslo, which means I have an entire day to explore Copenhagen—a city I’m discovering for the first time.

When I told my friends about my plan to see Copenhagen in just one day, most of them let out an "Ohhh." Envious faces looked at me.

Indeed, I perceive this city as beautiful. But once again, I realize that the size and noise of a big city tend to overwhelm rather than fascinate me. A cathedral here, a bustling street there, the same shops, a similar vibe. My longing for peace and quiet draws me more toward small villages, remote places that feel more personal and unique to me. Nevertheless, I want to make the most of my day. So, here’s my itinerary for:

My One-Day Itinerary in Copenhagen

Breakfast at Hart Bakery – A Must-Try Pastry Stop

My first stop is Hart Bakery which is supposed to be one of the best bakeries in Copenhagen. I buy some pastries for the equivalent of 20 euros and settle on the steps of the Marble Church, Frederik’s Church, to enjoy them in the sun. I am convinced, I’m only paying for the name, but the moment I take a bite of the sausage roll, I immediately want to run back and buy out the entire shop. The outer pastry is crispy, slightly sweet, and buttery, while the meat inside is juicy and flavorful. The combination creates an umami taste that you just want to sink into.

For dessert, I have a cardamom croissant that looks like a flower. I practically inhale it. The inside is soft and fluffy, with a strong yet well-balanced cardamom note, while the outer layer is crispy thanks to a sugar glaze. An experience.

I continue walking toward the river. Several times, I’m nearly run over by cyclists zooming past me. My first instinct is to angrily yell after them, but I quickly realize that there are bike lanes everywhere—which I, an oblivious tourist, keep wandering onto. I’m on their turf, so really, it’s only fair that they almost take me out. From that moment on, I make sure to look left and right every single time I cross even the smallest street—anything to make it through the day alive.

Ice Cream & The Hans Christian Andersen House

I buy an ice cream and sit down in front of the Hans Christian Andersen House on Nyhavn, though it seems the esteemed gentleman occupied multiple prime-location homes. On both sides of the canal—now a tourist hotspot—there are plaques bearing his name. He appears to be one of the few artists who actually fared well during his lifetime.

Still, there’s something special about standing in front of his house, imagining how the breathtaking views from his window might have inspired his tales of mermaids and swans. As I drift into his literary fantasies, I savor my ice cream. Culinary-wise, this city has already won me over—though eating here could easily drive you to financial ruin. The Japanese even have a word for it: Kuidaore—spending all your money on food until you go broke. In Copenhagen, Kuidaore can be done in style.

Exploring Copenhagen’s Canals & Historic Spots

On a warm day, a boat tour through the canals is a must. It gives you a great overview of the city while offering a refreshing breeze from the water. We pass by the Black Diamond library, a sleek granite structure with asymmetrical angles that reflect the water beautifully.

Along the canals, charming boathouses line the shores, stirring a deep longing for a life on the water. At one point, I spot massive crowds gathered at the riverbanks, basking in the sun. It’s an unfamiliar sight for me—half-naked people lounging right in the middle of the city. I get the feeling that community life is something truly cherished here.

Motorboats, available for rent, come equipped with a table in the center—perfect for a picnic on the water. Later, as I stroll along the canals, I notice more tables and benches set up along the waterfront. Some people have laid out their dinner, others are playing chess. Everything around me feels idyllic, connected.

A Moment of Reflection by the Water

In this moment, an emptiness rises within me. An emptiness from not sharing this experience with him. Maybe also—and this is a painful and shameful realization—an emptiness from no longer having to fight.

For the past two years, I have been constantly fighting. Fighting for my freedom, defending myself against his accusations. And now that it’s over, now that I can simply be at peace with myself, it feels unfamiliar.

The joy of it hasn’t arrived yet—I still can’t fully embrace it. I find myself in a limbo between the past and sa future that has not yet fully begun.

I remember a line from one of my favorite movies, Get Him to the Greek: “Before I had a lot of problems. But with heroin, I only have one problem.”

That’s exactly how I felt with Lucas. I was doing better because I only focused on him—no other distractions. But the “problem” with him was severe.

And yet, doubts creep in. It wasn’t like the horror stories people tell about their narcissistic partners. Yes, he was self-absorbed. But he also cared. He accompanied me to medical appointments when something was really wrong. He took care of me when I was sick and always encouraged me not to overwork myself. He often checked in to make sure that my constant cooking for him was something I actually enjoyed. But then came the moments when he took it all back—when he threw it in my face, claiming he did so much for me and got nothing in return.

Ending the Day in Christiania

My last stop of the day is Christiania, a must-see when visiting Copenhagen. On this particular day, there’s a music festival, The Sunday Concerts, so the place is packed with tourists. I marvel at the colorful houses and artworks.

The entrance to the famous Pusher Street is closed. Once one of the most dangerous streets—where illegal deals took place—it is now undergoing complete renovation, a joint effort by the police and Christiania’s residents.

I visit one of the best vegetarian restaurants, Morgenstedet. Compared to the rest of Copenhagen, the prices here are actually quite reasonable. You get a full plate of various salads or warm dishes you can mix and match. And the food is delicious.

After a day full of impressions, I settle into the night bus.

I realize that, even though I still have a long way to go, I am slowly starting to open myself up to life again. I am beginning to enjoy things, to take in the world around me. Step by step, I am learning to rediscover the world.

A world without him.

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Be well,

Vaselisa